Caring for Fantail Pigeons

Of the over 800 historical breeds descended from the rock dove The fantail pigeon is among the most ancient, and considered the original “fancy pigeon”. While the exact origins are unknown the breed is described in Spain as early as 1150 AD. Fantails can be bred with many color variations, but all possess the regal tail held upright much like miniature peacocks of the pigeon world.
Our fantails are a cross between American Fantails and Indian Fantails. Indian fantails date as far back as 1560 AD. The key differences between the two types are in ornamentation and display. Indian fantails have a much fancier tail, which after developing becomes “bristled” as the feather filaments separate, yielding a mesh like pattern towards the tips. Indian fantails have feathered feet and a raised crest at the back of the head. American fantails lack the crest and can have feathered or non-feathered feet. American fantails have solid tails with full filaments out to the tips. American fantails display in a very awkward posture with the head brought back to touch the tail and the chest puffed out and upward while on tip toes. Indian fantails stand flat-footed with the head held in parallel to the tail, giving a much more natural pose.
Our fantails possess a mix of body traits from both breeds, but all display in an Indian style. The males dancing can become quite elaborate, with marching back and forth puffing up the neck and holding the wings at full span and perpendicular to the ground, alternating with the wings held tight against the body and bobbing the head up and down with the throat remaining inflated.
If tamed in a more hands on manner than Diamond Doves, any pigeon breed can become a great pet, very devoted and loving. Pigeons can also be trained to fly to the hand and perch on the shoulder, as well as to fly on command. Bonding with the bird is important to proceed in similar fashion as with Diamond doves. However when handling a pigeon, considering the size, it cannot be simply perched on the hand. An excellent way to begin handling a pigeon is to hold the feet with one hand toward the tail, and cradle the bird with the other arm providing a posture in which the bird is laying down in your arms. By holding the feet the bird will not readily try to escape, and if the lap is used as the cradle you can even pet the bird and begin a more assertive approach to showing the bird you mean it no harm. After the bird is calm one can allow it to perch in the palm of the hand, but this should be implemented after a long handling period of several weeks. Eventually the pigeon can be allowed to fly freely in the home, and a good way to train the bird is to use the cage with “freedom” positive re-enforcement. When a behavior is not desired, cage the bird. In this way the bird will associate desired behaviors with being able to be in larger spaces, or “freedom”.
Fantail pigeons kept as pets do not require a great deal of space, however when given large areas to live in the displays presented will be more grand. A pet pigeon can be housed in a cage without fear of injury given their size. The minimum sized cage should be 30 by 30 by 30 inches, to allow the bird to be able to flap it’s wings at full span. The same minimum requirements must be provided, two perches, food dishes, cuttlebone, and preferably litter rather than paper. Pigeons make a mess when eating, and thrash food about. Hooded food dishes can help contain the spread of seeds. Pigeons are grain eaters, and safflower, millet, wheat, and even corn can be fed to them. Avoid a narrow diet of seeds. Experimenting with many blends may be needed over the course of several months to find your birds best taste.
Pigeons love to bathe, and require a large shallow dish to bathe in. Like Ringneck doves the dish should be provided at least once a week, and removed to keep from fowling the living environment. A deep water dish is needed for drinking, as like all doves and pigeons fantails submerge the head to drink.
A pet pigeon should be considered with a great deal of investment, as they can live as long as 40 years with excellent care, and average 20 years in life span.

Caring for Ringneck Doves

Ringneck Doves are domesticated from Africa and have been captively bred and raised for many years, yielding over 40 different color breeds with various morphs. They are typified by a semi-circular ring or collar around the nape of the neck. Ringnecks are a vocal dove, with an almost laughing type of cooh and poignant long notes. When displaying Ringnecks puff out the neck and bob the whole body up an down like a teeter totter pivoting at the hips and also raise the feathers on the back of the head to a small ridge, which is quite the sight to see! Ringneck doves are sleek and imperial looking doves with blunt ended tails and fast flight wings. Ringnecks average 10-14 inches in length.
A single Ringneck dove can be housed in a cage of 25 by 25 by 25 inches, however larger is recommended. Once again, as with diamond doves, screen mesh aviaries or plexiglass walled aviaries are preferred to cages, as cage bars produce obstacles for injury. The basic set up is identical to that of diamond doves, with food and water dish, cuttlebone, and at least two perches. Large food dishes in which the bird can perch on the brim are good. If using such dishes do not mount perches next to dishes, as this will increase the frequency of droppings in the dishes. To avoid such problems overall dishes with hoods can be used, in which case a perch should be set at the proper distance for the bird to be able to fit the head into the hood.
To foster natural behavior litter at the bottom of the cage is recommended, and food dumped onto the litter for foraging. At least two types of food are recommended to supplement a full diet. Standard finch or canary seed along with dove mixes heavy in wheat and millet are good. Dove mixes with safflower seeds will make a happy bird! Safflower seeds also provide a good source of fat for the birds.
A large water bath should be provided for your dove at least once a week, but not left for more than a day, as the water will fowl. Ringneck doves can become fond of fountains and “showering” as well.
All of the same considerations made with Diamond Doves should be assumed for Ringneck doves. Ringneck doves can be tamed in much the same process as Diamond Doves, and if enough work is put forth they can even be trained to fly to one’s hand from various distances and to perch on a shoulder with comfort.
Ringneck doves can be hybridized with many forms of exotic dove as well as pigeons, although the practice takes a great deal of patience and dedication. The resulting hybrids can be quite splendid.

Caring for Diamond Doves

Diamond doves are among the smallest species of pigeon in the world and originate from Australia. They are about 7 inches in length, at least 3 inches of which is tail. The males and females both sing a long soft note that resonates very well, and can be quite soothing. Diamond doves can live as long as 20 years with proper care.
Diamond Doves are easy and simple to care for. A single Diamond Dove can be housed in a standard bird cage, 18 by 18 by 14 inches. Doves of all types however prefer longer cages and aviaries than tall cages, as they enjoy foraging for food. Aviaries with mesh screen or plastic walls are better than cages, as cage bars are easy for a bird to entangle feathers in and become seriously injured. Bird litter rather than paper at the bottom of an aviary or cage is preferred to foster the food foraging behavior. An open topped nest, at least two perches, food dish, water dish, and cuttlebone are the minimum requirements.
Diamond doves are diurnal, and prefer darkness at night. They do not need a cage cover, only a dark room once night falls. Artificial lighting should include full spectrum light at least 10 hours per day.
When selecting a location for your bird cage or aviary be conscious of the environment. Will you be burning candles or incents in the room? Using tefflon and non-stick cook wear? These items can harm the lungs of your bird. A room with good ventilation is recommended, as birds can produce a fair amount of dust.
Diamond doves can be fed standard finch or canary seed, as well as budgerigar seed. Larger seed types are not recommended, but some dove food blends including large millet and wheat grains are within size range. It is good to offer diamond doves at least two types of food. Millet sprays are a good treat. Diamond doves have a high metabolism and can need more food daily. Water should be cleaned regularly and the dish kept full, doves prefer a full dish as they submerge almost their entire head to drink water.
Diamond doves also prefer company, and can be housed with finches.
Diamond doves can be tamed and handled, but this process requires a great deal of devotion and care, as well as maintenance. Bonding with the bird is essential for the process to work. The most effective ways to bond with your bird are to sit and read to it and also make conversation with it, using signature phrases that you do not use for other pets or people. When the dove is first brought into a new home it is good to allow the bird several weeks (3-4) to acclimate to permanent surroundings. In the first two weeks it is beneficial not to attempt to bond, as the bird can be rather stressed from adjusting. After a period of several weeks of soothing the bird with your voice and being in close proximity to the cage you can move to putting your hand in the cage, but not touching the bird, for at least 20-30 minutes a day. This allows the bird to understand that you do not mean to hurt it. This should occur for 2-3 weeks. After this period you can handle the bird. A good way to hold the bird is to cup the bird in one hand and gently hold shelter the bird with the other hand, careful to let air through so the bird does not overheat. Do not press the bird, as you can hurt them easily. Eventually the bird will calm and for 4-6 weeks you can allow the bird to perch on a finger without disturbing the bird for at least 30 minutes a day. Slowly petting the bird can be introduced, but be prepared in this process to chase a nervous bird! It’s unwise to have the bird out of the cage with windows open, or many doorways open. Being contained to one room is the best plan, as you may need to catch the bird many times in the process. If well executed the bird will bond and become quite an amazing pet.